Museo de la Catedral de Arequipa

Yesterday we visited the Museo de la Catedral de Arequipa (Museum of the Cathedral of Arequipa).  For the first time I was tired out by something at this high elevation, the stairs up to the rooftop, but it was worth it.

The cathedral is located on the main square, just kitty-corner from the hotel.  It occupies the entire block facing the square and is a beautiful as you would expect.  For 10 soles a person (approx. $4, tip not included) you can take a tour of the museum and cathedral, with tours starting as soon as there are guests and a tour guide ready to go.  I saw at least three other guides, so there shouldn't be a long wait.  We did not have to wait at all.  Flora was our local, friendly and knowledgeable.

The cathedral has been partially or completely destroyed several times since the 1500's and the current building dates from the 19th century.  A candle was knocked over and an nearly all consuming fire took the somewhat smaller previous structure.  Several wealthy families made major donations at that time.  This incarnation is gorgeous with a high alter and Belgian built organ.

The museum houses vestments, various gold, silver and bronze religious items.  Photography was not allowed in the museum itself.  My most memorable items were the gold and jewel encrusted crown of thorns, tiny bowls that survived the fire (you can see where the host was in the bowls at the time of the fire, making a "hidden Mickey" in the bottom) and a cap given by a 20th century pope (can't remember which one) to a local family and eventually donated to the church.  There were other amazing pieces of gold and silver, with countless gems.  How I wish I could have taken photos!

Then we start the climb, first to the second floor observation walkway which overlooks the organ.  After that I remembered that I high in the mountains after so much time at sea level.  It is not that there are that many stairs to the roof, it is just that my legs were not quite ready for them.  But once you reach the time you forget the steps and take in the view of Misti, the city and the two bell towers.

There was an earthquake here about 10 years ago that toppled one of the towers and caused damage inside.  The tower was rebuilt in a matter of months.  The organ and statues inside are now reinforced and the cracks repaired.

We took our time up on the roof and shot many photos.  Flora was lovely and took some of us too.    It finally became time to descend.  It was a great hour and this is worth a visit!

Note the crack from the earthquake.

This one collapsed from the circle up.

The Ice Maiden Mummy

Over 500 years ago a 14 year old girl was sacrificed for and by her people on the 20,000 foot peak Ampato in the Andes surrounded by Incan priests.  Her body was wrapped in a blanket, tied into a bundle and buried.  At that height she froze quickly, becoming a natural mummy.  In 1995 Johan Reinhard, a high altitude archaeologist, was climbing Ampato to view the eruption of a neighboring volcano when he and his climbing partner came upon the famed mummy bundle.  It was the eruption itself that melted the ice and freed "Juanita", the name given to her in honor of the man who found her (Johan in Spanish is Juan, the female variant being Juanita).

Years ago I watched a documentary about the Ice Maiden and have always hoped to see her.  This trip has brought me not only to the city with the Catholic University Museum holding the mummy bundle, but the hotel is just two blocks away.  For anyone traveling to Arequipa, this is a very easy museum to reach, but it can be a challenge to find the actual entrance.  In order to view the mummy you must take a guided tour, preceded by a 20 minute National Geographic movie about the expedition, preservation and looking back to the sacrifice ritual. 

I am very glad I saw the Ice Maiden and the museum, but it does leave a person a bit melancholy to look upon the face of a young girl whose entire life was waiting for the call to be sacrificed to appease the mountain gods. "Juanita" was sent to he world of the gods when the volcano was erupting and the priests were trying to make the gods once again happy with her people.  She was to go live with the gods and act as a messenger between the two worlds. 

The children who were sacrificed were chosen by priests at birth and kept pure, being sacrificed when they were no more than 16 years of age.  Most of the ladies on the tour were wiping away tears (there were only two guys, both there at the behest of their own princesses). The photos I found online are a much better visual due to the triple layer of glass used to protect and maintain her frozen state and a very high humidity level. The case is a bit "cloudy", literally, which gives an eerie, mystical feel.  How appropriate. 

For more information about the Ice Maiden I suggest you read the book that I have been enjoying Ice Maiden written by Johan Reinhard, available in book and eBook form.

The next trip . . . not to Lima this time.

For the past few months I have been watching the airfares to Lima, watching them climb higher and higher.  There had been hopes for a June visit, but with fares nearing $1300 it was not to be.  Two weeks ago we happened upon a much better fare in early July and I snapped it up.

It turned out that the dates of the flights corresponded with the new vacation dates for my special someone.  It was suggested that this time we get out of Lima and see more of what Peru has to offer.  The first thought was Cusco, high in the Andes and the gateway to Machu Pichu.  But the airfares were once again a brick wall we could not climb and the 22 hour bus trip in the mountains was something I am not prepared to do. 

Next thought was Paracas, which is approximately 235 km south of Lima and part of the South Coast of Peru.  The National Reserve is often given the appellation the Galapagos of Peru.  It is in this region that you can also visit the Nasca Lines, the town of Pisco and I have been told lovely beaches.  Though I won't be visiting any of these in July.

It was finally decided that the destination of choice for our holiday will be . . . Arequipa! 

Dubbed the White City, a reference to the volcanic sillar rock used to build most colonial buildings, Arequipa is located 766 km southeast of Lima.  The second largest city in Peru is 2380 meters above sea level and surrounded by three magnificent volcanoes.  I look forward to exploring the city and taking a hike or possibly a horse back ride in the hills.  I have read that the Canon del Colca (100 miles from the city and a top tourist attraction) is the second deepest in the world, twice as deep as our own Grand Canyon. 

There is still much planning to do, and of course I have to decide what to pack.  (I was advised yesterday that I can't take as much as I usually do. This is going to be challenge.)

Please check back here in July for pictures and reviews of Arequipa, museums, restaurants and the activities in the surrounding area.